The little shop with big ideas

Shagufta Naaz on how Daaman, a relatively small Karachi-based prêt brand, managed to bag a Lux Style Awards nomination for Best Retail Brand.

When it comes to Pakistani fashion, custom-made is by and large still the order of the day. However, the concept of ready-to-wear is gaining ground, thanks to the efforts of a number of prêt-a-porter brands that have been quietly revolutionising the Pakistani woman’s wardrobe for over a decade. While names like Generation, and later FnkAsia, Gulabo and Khaadi Khaas have been dominating the ready-to-wear market for several years, newcomers such as Ego and Sheep have infused new energy into this category.

Daaman, one of the newer brands on the scene has proved that longevity is no criteria to success as it bagged a nomination in the Best Retail Brand category in the Lux Style Awards 2011, along with some of the most established names in the sector. 

Maleeha Nasir, owner and creative director of Daaman, holds a degree in social sciences and cheerfully admits that she had no formal qualification or experience in this field. Her passion however more than made up for it.

“I had a definite aesthetic vision when we launched Daaman. It was to incorporate western sensibilities into eastern garments. And we stayed true to this vision.”

Launched as a tiny shop in Zamzama in 2009, Daaman now has an outlet in Lahore (opened in March) and another in Islamabad (opened in July). In addition, the brand has also attracted a small but growing international clientele through its website.

“The timing was right,” says Nasir, commenting on the reasons for the brand’s success.

Daaman was launched at a time when a new breed of retailers were opening their doors and people were demonstrating a willingness to move away from custom-made.

“These brands have shifted the focus from embellishment and embroidery to cuts; fashion is becoming fun and flirty.”

Nasir says she draws customers from a very broad base, refusing to box them in any demographic category.

“People are becoming more fashion conscious, perhaps it’s due to international exposure through the media, perhaps it’s the trickle-down effect of high fashion thanks to the fashion weeks, etc.; whatever the reason, people across the board are appreciating modern styles and cuts.”

Speaking about trends between different cities, Nasir says “Our initial research suggested that Lahore would be a more conservative market compared to Karachi; yet, some of our bolder designs do better in Lahore. Lahori women buy in bulk; a client in Karachi may pick up three to four outfits, one in Lahore is likely to pick up eight to 10. Perhaps it’s because Karachi women still see prêt as an evening option or for a dress-up day; women in Lahore view it as everyday wear.”

As for her business model, Nasir says, “It is all about ‘fast fashion’; we bring out at least four new styles a week, with no more than 40-50 pieces for each style (including all size options), which are then distributed at all three outlets and online. This way we maintain exclusivity and encourage the concept of fast fashion: clients keep checking in at our store because they know that once they miss a style, they will not get it later.”

Asked about her marketing and promotional strategy, Nasir has only one word to say.

“Facebook! Without Facebook, we would not have made it. Since then we have not needed any further marketing because as it is we have a tough time keeping up with the demand.”

In Nasir’s opinion Daaman has no competition.

“Daaman is different from other brands. We have a definite vision: a western, simplistic, creative vision. I love what some of the other brands are doing but fundamentally it is very different from what we do.”

On the nomination for the Lux Style Awards, Nasir says, “It feels wonderful to be noticed for what we have done, without any effort on our part; without any schmoozing so to speak. It is a great boost to know we are going in the right direction.”

Regarding why Daaman made it to a list which includes retail giants such as Khaadi, FnkAsia and Generation, Nasir responds with: “We offer something different and perhaps that was the reason we were noticed.”

Nasir believes that as more people become more fashion conscious, ready-to-wear will become increasingly popular.

“I see more and more brands coming up. Ready-made is an easier option for people like me, who want to get into the creative side of this business but do not want to deal with clients on a one-on-one basis.”

So where does Daaman hope to be five years down the road?

“Definitely with another big store in Karachi which will be our flagship, and maybe another one in Lahore. I see a lot more international marketing. Maybe we will bring out different lines; for example Daaman Evening or a kiddie line, or a line for young women, or Daaman Maternity…”

Nasir is brimming with ideas.

Shagufta Naaz works for The Dawn Media Group.

First published in the September-October 2011 issue of Aurora